Levelling a floor doesn't start with mixing the first bag. A good result is largely determined by what you do beforehand. If you properly inspect the subfloor, prepare the right materials, and work methodically, the job becomes much more manageable.
Step 1: Determine what subfloor you have
Concrete, sand-cement, anhydrite, tile, and wood don't automatically require the same preparation. So first note which type of floor is present.
Step 2: Inspect the floor
Check for cracks, holes, loose parts, adhesive residue, and height differences. Self-levelling compound is meant to create a suitable, flat subfloor, not to hide every underlying problem.
Step 3: Clean the floor
Dust, grease, loose particles, and poorly adhering residue don't belong under a levelling layer. Clean the subfloor thoroughly, and sand or remove residue when the chosen system requires it.
Step 4: Repair damage
Large holes and certain cracks are usually treated separately first. This prevents you from using unnecessary amounts of self-levelling compound or simply hiding a problem from view.
Step 5: Prime the floor
Apply a suitable primer when it's part of the levelling system. Pay attention to the prescribed dilution, quantity, and drying time.
Step 6: Calculate the material
Measure the surface area and determine the average layer thickness. Combine this with the consumption rate of the chosen product. Make sure enough bags and clean water are ready before you start.
Step 7: Mix the compound precisely
Use the amount of water specified by the manufacturer. Extra water may seem to make the material flow more easily, but it changes the composition and can affect the result.
Step 8: Pour and spread the compound
Work systematically through the space. New batches need to connect promptly with material that's already been poured. Self-levelling doesn't mean the mortar corrects every height difference without help; the material still needs to be spread properly.
Step 9: Let the floor dry
Respect the drying and waiting time. A floor may already be walkable while it's not yet suitable for bonding a new floor.
Step 10: Inspect and finish
After drying, the floor is inspected again. For some floor finishes, such as adhesive-bonded vinyl, sanding or further preparation may be needed before bonding.
When is it better to hire a professional?
For large living rooms, difficult subfloors, underfloor heating, or uncertainty about the condition of the floor, professional levelling can be a wise choice. Fixing a failed levelling layer often takes more time than properly assessing the subfloor beforehand.